Barca!

July 14, 2011

People have said they want to hear more about our honeymoon in Barcelona. Great!

A lot of people asked how we chose Barcelona as our honeymoon destination. Originally, we thought about going on a beach vacation, but realized we might get bored. Then, we thought about going to Rome and Florence, but realized that with SO MUCH to see in both those places, we’d feel a lot of pressure to sightsee. Barcelona was the perfect happy medium. We wanted to go somewhere that had lots of interesting cultural things to do, but, since it was our honeymoon, we also wanted someplace where we could relax on the beach and stroll around without feeling like we were “wasting time.” It was a great choice for us! I figure I’ll walk you through our trip chronologically.

We got our bearings by taking a hop-on-hop-off bus tour on the first day. This allowed us to get a general sense of the layout of the city. It also helped us scope out the big landmarks quickly, to see if we’d like to take the time to revisit them later. And given our intense jetlag, it provided a much needed break from walking around the city.


We took a walk to the Born neighborhood and to the docks to watch the boats come in most days of our trip. The Born neighborhood is funky, less touristy, and full of interesting shops and restaurants. And the harbor? Well, we just like boats.


One afternoon, we strolled over the the breathtaking Sagrada Familia– a spectacular cathedral designed by Gaudi. He designed such an elaborate building plan that it’s current completion estimate is 2026. I’ve heard its worth the Euros and the wait in line to see the inside, but Will and I were pretty pleased and awestruck enough with the outside.

We spent a lot of time sitting in and strolling through Barcelona’s many beautiful city parks. Like this one, across the street from Sagrada Familia.

We took a very quick jaunt through Las Ramblas (the most touristy part of Barcelona) just to a) see it and b) to visit La Boqueria (the farmer’s market). They have EVERYTHING at La Boqueria. Including, as pictured above, skinned squirrels, with eyeballs still attached (sorry for the bad pic, but I didn’t want to draw further attention to the fact I found these freakish). We also bought some fruit here for our room, since we found it very difficult to eat enough produce during our trip. I think a trip to La Boqueria is essential, but I don’t know that we missed much by going through Las Ramblas so quickly.

Park Guell (which is what the first photo in the post is from). Unquestionably a must-see. An enormous park designed by Gaudi. Beautiful flowers next to Dr Seussian-like buildings and sculptures. The park is huge (and free!) and is a wonderful place to spend hours on a sunny afternoon. And I do mean hours. We were there for about 5 hours and still saw only 75% of the park. Great for exploring.

And for climbing to the top of for a panoramic view of the city!

We took a day trip to the beautiful beach town of Sitges. While we definitely loved the beach area of Barcelona (Barceloneta), Sitges was quieter, less crowded, and had even warmer, clearer water. It is a relaxed beach town, with many shops and restaurants to explore. It is also one of Europe’s top gay destinations. If you’re feeling tired of sightseeing in the city, Sitges is a welcome diversion. We traveled to Sitges by train from the Estacio Sants train station in Barcelona, and tickets were less than 10 euros for the two of us. By the way, if you’re like us, everyone will tell you the everyone in Barcelona speaks English. That is not true, particularly at the train station. Know the words for “2 tickets” and “round trip” and “what track?”

We budgeted for one guided tour, and chose Spanish Trails’ Monserrat and Wine Country Tour. We knew that if we selected a good tour company, we’d get insider information on the places we wanted to go, avoid crowds, and see some sites off the track of the Metro or train without having to rent a car and (worst of all) drive in Spain, where the traffic all too often resembles the motorcycle chase scene in The Bourne Ultimatum. We were thrilled with Spanish Trails (which we found because it’s the 2nd highest ranked Spanish tour company on trip advisor) where our friendly and personable tour guide whisked us around Monserrat so we could see all the neat stuff and avoid the massive crowds.

We saw the awe-inspiring monastery, and took a beautiful cliff side walk there, where various scenes of The Passion (some designed by Gaudi) are displayed on the side of the mountain. This walk is (surprisingly) not advertised. We might not have ever found it if we didn’t go with the tour.


We then ate lunch and strolled through a little town I mentioned in my Pa Amb Tomaque post. And then proceeded to taste (too much) wine and cava at a quaint little countryside winery. While this tour is pricier than others it is all inclusive, which many are not. It included everything, from lunch to funicular tickets. And it was fun and stress-free.

We spent our last two days strolling around the city in the morning, visiting the beach at Barceloneta in the afternoon, and eating out at great places at night. It was a perfect 8 day honeymoon.

If you’re planning on visiting Barcelona, I’d be happy to talk to you or email you about it! I am definitely no Fodors, but we did have a great time and, I think, made some really great decisions on how to spend our time and money.

Will and I didn’t ask for a whole lot of stuff for our wedding, but we did request a small amount of kitchen supplies I have fantasized about for the last year. One of my favorite presents is a pizza stone that our good friend Kyle’s mom generously bought for us. I’ve been using the heck out of it this summer and can’t believe a) how airy and crispy it makes my pizza crust and b) how hot my oven gets from it! When we don’t know what to make for dinner, we just throw whatever vegetables, cheese, and/or meat looks good onto a pizza!

This week, asparagus looked very good. We added some prosciutto, some parmesan shavings, a drizzle of olive oil, and cracked black pepper.

I recognize that there is nothing revolutionary about what I made here, but  in the summer, I crave food that requires little effort and tastes really fresh. Winter is for elaborate baking projects. Summer is for pizza!

More on pizza here

An NY Times articles on Spanish Roses, which blew my mind in Barca

PROSCUITTO AND ASPARAGUS FLATBREAD

Serves 2

I kept the asparagus intact for reasons mainly of function. The first time I made this pizza, I chopped the asparagus into pieces, and it was difficult to grab a hold of. The asparagus would fall out from under the prosciutto (DANGER DANGER). By keeping the asparagus whole, you can get a good grip on them while biting down.

When you slice the pizza, make long, rectangular cuts in between pieces of asparagus. This also will help keep your pizza intact.

Ingredients

8-10 oz pizza dough (about half a blob from the store)

Cornmeal

1 bunch thick asparagus

Extra virgin olive oil

Salt & freshly cracked black pepper

4-6 very thin slices of prosciutto (enough to cover your pizza)

Shaved parmesan cheese (again, enough to spread across your pizza… I used about 1 oz)

Recipe

2 hours before baking, take your pizza dough out of the fridge (if that’s where it is) and allow it to come to room temperature.

Preheat oven as to 500, putting a pizza stone inside if you have one.

Sprinkle parchment paper with cornmeal, to prevent pizza from sticking.

Roll or stretch out your pizza dough into a big rectangle. Place onto the parchment paper.

Rinse, dry, and chop fibrous ends off asparagus. Rub them with some olive oil.

Line the asparagus up across the pizza dough. Sprinkle with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.

Place the asparagus-lined dough into the oven. Toss in some ice cubes every few minutes to keep the air moist. This will help yield a crispy crust. When the flatbread is browned it is done.

Remove the browned flatbread from the oven. Delicately drape your slices of prosciutto perpendicularly over the asparagus. Spread as much or as little shaved parmesan as you’d like across the flatbread. Finish with a little more black pepper and a drizzle of olive oil.

I gained 3 lbs in Barcelona (WORTH IT). Here’s how:

Plate of Calamaritti (ittuh bittuh squids) and bottle of Cava at La Mar Salada.

Paella at La Mar Salada (which we went to because of this NY Times article). Awkward photo courtesy of said bottle of Cava.

Jamon y queso bocadillo (Spanish ham and cheese sandwich). This was from a little shop in the Born neighborhood in Spain. Also, I want to give a shout-out to Pans&Company. It’s the Spanish version of Subway, but even their version of Jambon Y Queso brought me to my knees. WHY IS SPAIN SO MUCH BETTER THAN US AT HAM?

A pitcher of Sangria and tapas at Bilbao Berria. Each tapas is 1.65 Euros. You go up to the counter, help yourself to whatever looks good, pop the skewers that stick out of each tapas into the metal cup in the middle of your table. At the end of the night, the waiter counts your skewers and charges your accordingly.


My favorite tapas at Bilbao Berria. Iberian ham, roasted chile pepper, and a quail egg on toast. YOU MUST GO HERE.

Pig jowl. So sweet, so tender, so rich. From some tiny restaurant in rural Spain where no one spoke any English. I wish I remembered the name. Not that I could ever remember how to get there again or anything…

Wine and Cava tasting at this beautiful vineyard. Wine and cava tasting where there is no spit bucket… that was also an interesting afternoon. Why does Spain drink SO MUCH?

Cannelloni stuffed with roast beef, covered in cheese, spritzed with truffle oil from Restaurant L’Etapes. This is a traditional Catalan Christmas dish, as well as the signature dish of this restaurant. Will and I decided that this was our very favorite restaurant of our entire trip. It was small and quaint, with a waitstaff who truly cared that you enjoyed each and every dish they brought out. Every one of the tapas was superbly executed, using very fresh ingredients.

Mussels with tomatoes, garlic scapes, and crispy onions at Ohla Gastronomic Bar. Basically every traditional restaurant in Barcelona is closed on Sunday nights, except for ones that are located in hotels. We came across this one by sheer dumb luck our first night, and decided to eat there the last night as well as it was a) wonderful and b) everything else was closed. Other highlights of this meal included gazpacho with sardines and spelt bread crumbs, dried tuna with shaved macadamia nuts. Again, highly recommended, particularly on Sunday night.

So as you can see, we ate our weight in cured meat and cheese. We were desperately craving something like this as soon as we got home:

Lots and lots of arugula, tossed with chickpeas, pasta, and goat cheese. Full of vitamins and fiber (things we seemed to have missed ordering off tapas menus in Spain). I added a hard boiled egg to the leftovers the next day, for a little extra protein. It was lovely. It’s all about balance, I suppose.

Salut!

ARUGULA, CHICKPEA, AND GOAT CHEESE PASTA SALAD (by me)

Serves 8 as a main course

It took us a few days to eat this. I normally wait until the last minute to dress my salads, but the dressing was light enough that the greens never got soggy. You can dress it ahead of time and help yourself as you please, if you like.

Ingredients

8 cups arugula

1 can chickpeas

4 oz goat cheese, crumbled

1/4 cup good olive oil

4 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

1 lb cooked, cooled pasta

Salt & Pepper to taste

Recipe

Put arugula, chickpeas, and goat cheese into an enormous bowl. Whisk together garlic, olive oil, and red pepper flakes, then pour the dressing over the beans and greens. Mix together with your hands or salad tongs. Add pasta and mix again until well combined. Add salt & pepper to taste.

Pa Amb Tomaquet

June 27, 2011

I have SO MUCH to tell you! First, this:

That’s us! Will and Elizabeth. All our a cappella group rehearsals (how we met) and all those late nights spent watching the Muppet Show (not a joke, or a euphemism) led us here.

And we got to share it with so many of our very favorite people. Our ceremony was the most epic dance party we’ve ever been to. And a lot of our friends have told us it was the best party they’ve ever been to! I could go on and on about it, but I think I’ll just show you some pictures instead.

Julia!

“I woke up the morning after your wedding and waited for the pain. But the pain was in my spine. From rocking out. So hard.”- Sarah, showing off her assets next to Andrew

David! Who had a dougie-off with Will.


Us!

During “Shout”

“I may not be the best dancer, but I am the MOST dancer” – Craig

By the end of the night, my hair fell out of place. Possibly from jumping during “Shout!” Or maybe from playing air guitar during the Journey Sing-A-Long. Possibly from fist pumping…during almost every song. I don’t how it happened but I know it was worth it.

I have left you recipe-less during almost the entire month of June, so here is a recipe for Pa Amb Tomaquet (Tomato Bread), an import from our honeymoon in Barcelona (more details on our honeymoon in upcoming posts). People in the Catalan region of Spain eat this bread with their meals the way people in the States get a bread basket with dinner. It is perfect in its simplicity. A piece of good bread is toasted, rubbed with garlic, rubbed with a tomato, and finished with olive oil. Deeelicious!

PA AMB TOMAQUET (as taught to us in a tiny restaurant in Monserrat)

No quantities of ingredients are included, because how much or how little you use is really up to you.

Ingredients

Good bread, toasted or grilled

Garlic cloves, peeled

Tomatoes, sliced in half

Salt

Good olive oil

Recipe

Rub your slice of toast with garlic. Squeeze your tomato half over your toast, then rub the tomato on the toast, so the juice and pulp soaks in to the bread. Sprinkle your bread with salt. Drizzle with olive oil to finish. Enjoy.


The new additions to my family (minus Will’s mom, who can be seen waltzing with him one picture up). Aren’t they a good looking bunch?

Where Is Elizabeth?

June 9, 2011

I am getting married this weekend (!) and foolishly thought I would be in possession of both the time and the desire to blog this week. I hate to post without even one measly recipe for June, but I wanted to let you know that I will return full force at the end of June after our honeymoon (!) in Barcelona (!) ZOMG.

I hope you have a wonderful next couple of weeks and I look forward to updating you on everything at the end of June.

Bone Happy Teeth!

Pickled Jalapenos

May 22, 2011

This weather is the pits. Where did the sunny part of Spring go? Every day I’ve had off has been grey, drizzle-y, and 45 degrees. Where is the sun? The heat? The chirping songbirds? But I had a brilliant idea Wednesday night. I would make my own sunshine *ding. How is that possible? you ask. MAKE TACOS AND MARGARITAS FOR DINNER.

And so I chopped vegetables and grilled shrimp (inside) while listening to the Buena Vista Social Club station on Pandora. I decided to add a few special touches to the shrimp tacos. I made a corn and tomato relish. I grilled up a link of chorizo that was sitting patiently in our freezer. And I made an at home version of my favorite taco condiment, pickled jalapenos.

Much spicier than their canned counterparts, these potent peppers will kick up anything you add them to (I’d strongly encouage you to chop them into small bits, first. I ate a whole round and had to chug milk immediately after). You even get to pickle some carrot rounds with them which make another excellent taco topping.

This recipe yields 2, pint sized jars. Which is good, because if this week’s forecast is any indication, we have a lot of taco/margarita nights in our future.

PICKLED JALAPENOS (from Everyday Food, June 2011)

Yields 2 pint jars

Ingredients

1/2 lb jalapenos (about 8)

2 medium carrots (cut into 1/4 inch rounds)

1.5 cups cider vinegar

2 cups water

2 bay leaves

2 teaspoons coarse salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

Recipe

Cut stems off jalapenos and slice into 1/4 inch rounds. Put them in a big, heatproof glass bowl. Put carrots, vinegar, water, bay leaves, salt, sugar, and peppercorns in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. As soon as the mixture boils, reduce heat to a simmer for 2 minutes. Pour this mix over jalapenos, and let cool (about one hour). Store in an airtight container for 3 weeks or more.

My state no longer allows the selling of raw pistachios. They are now considered “unpasturized” (PLAYA WHAAAT?). So instead of the bright, green boarder of ground pistachios I envisioned on this tart, I created one that is mostly brown. Feh.


But it tasted good. It was a bit labor intensive to slice and arrange all those strawberries, and Lord knows I didn’t want to turn my oven on when it was 80 degrees outside, but this dessert was greatly appreciated by my friends. It is a light-tasting, springtime dessert. The brightness of the strawberries, the crunch of the toasted nuts, and the crisp puff pastry are just right for a springtime potluck. Winner.

STRAWBERRY PISTACHIO TART (from Everyday Food, May 2011)

Serves 12

I wouldn’t wait more than a few hours to eat this. My instincts tell me that it wouldn’t take long for the puff pastry to get soggy.

Ingredients

All purpose flour, for rolling

1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed

1/2 cup unsalted, shelled pistachios

2 tablespoons sugar

5 cups thinly sliced strawberries (about 1.5 lbs)

1/4 cup apricot jam, warmed

Recipe

Preheat oven to 350. Cover work surface lightly with flour. Roll puff pastry into 12 by 16 inch. Line baking sheet with parchment. Move puff pastry to baking sheet and trim edges to make them neat*. Place in freezer until dough is firm (about 10 mins).

Prick pastry all over with a fork. Place another sheet of parchment paper and then another baking sheet on top of the pastry to stop if from puffing too much in the oven. Bake until its lightly golden in color (20-25 mins).

While the pastry bakes, put 1/4 cup pistachios and sugar in a food processor. Grind until they are a fine, sand-like consistency. Sprinkle this all other pastry.

Return pastry to oven and bake until the pastry and pistachios turn a rich gold color (15 to 17 mins). Remove pastry from oven.

Roughly chop the rest of the pistachios. Arrange strawberries on the pastry in an overlapping pattern. Brush berries and the boarder of the pastry with jam, then sprinkle chopped pistachios on the  boarder. Serve warm or at room temperature.

(To store tart, allow it to cool fully and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap. Leave at room temperature for up to one day).

I used turned the scraps into mini apricot chocolate pastries. I rolled them out, put a dab of leftover apricot jam and some dark chocolate in the center, folded them in half and pressed the edges together, brushed them with a beaten egg, sprinkled them with sugar, and baked them at 350 until they were browned. Deeelicious.

I’ve made it a personal goal to get as much of my food as possible at the farmer’s market this year. Admittedly, this is less for reasons of morality and more for reasons of taste. And laziness on my part. Because the better my product, the less I have to do to it. (Case in point: last post’s epic roast chicken).

So I threw together this little diddy from my leftovers from the week. It’s a pizza crust, baked until crispy. Soft goat cheese is mushed up with lemon juice and zest and is spread over the crust. Then, a mound of arugula, lightly dressed with lemon juice and olive oil, is piled on top.  A sprinkle of salt, a crack of black pepper, and this, my friends, is spring on a plate.

And this, my friends, is spring on a hike.

Happy spring!

ARUGULA AND GOAT CHEESE PIZZA (by me)

My friend Sara recommended some sliced beets on top. I’m thinking of adding a poached egg. What are your ideas?

My dressing is very tart. If you prefer a less lemon-y dressing, use 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil and 1 tbsp lemon juice

Serves 4

Ingredients

1 lb pizza dough (brought to room temperature an hour or two before baking)

Oil (for greasing baking sheet)

4 oz goat cheese (room temperature)

1 tbsp & 1 tbsp lemon juice, separated

Zest of 1/2 lemon

Salt & pepper

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

3 cups arugula

Recipe

Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Use a bit of oil to grease baking sheet. Stretch or roll pizza dough on to baking sheet. Place in oven. Toss a few ice cubes in the oven every 3 or 4 minutes to keep the oven air humid and the crust crispy. Bake until crust is browned.

While crust bakes, place goat cheese in a bowl. Pour 1 tbsp lemon juice and zest over goat cheese, grind in cracked black pepper to taste, and smoosh it all together with a fork. Spread mixture over baked crust.

In another bowl, whisk remaining 1 tbsp lemon juice with 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil. Pour it over arugula and toss it together in a bowl. Place the dressed arugula on top of the goat cheese-y pizza crust. Top with salt and pepper to taste. Enjoy!


Spring fever has turned my brain to mush. I want to wander around aimlessly outside in the 60 and 70 degree sunshine. I want to read outside of coffee shops. I want to ride my bike. I do not want to try new recipes. I do not want to blog. FIRST WORLD CRISIS.

The Saturday farmer’s market inspired me to put forth a little more effort. I brought back goat cheese, bread, eggs, radishes, turnips, spinach, arugala, and a 3lb whole chicken. I’ve made roast chicken in the past, which has been good, but I’ve been dying to try this Thomas Keller recipe for months. I’ve waited until the spring so I could be sure to get a good chicken from the farmer’s market.

And a good one I got, and cleaned, and reluctantly pulled the organs out of.

This roast chicken has a cult following on the internet for good reason. The skin is so very crispy and salty, the chicken is so very moist. I served it with an arugula salad and a hunk of rosemary bread. Best meal of the spring so far.

And after our very large feast, we went for a very long walk, where we joined a parade/flash mob of drummers and people dancing the samba.

And had some wine and beer on a restaurant patio.

It was a very good day.

THOMAS KELLER’S MON POULET ROTI (from Bouchon as published on epicurious’ My Favorite Roast Chicken)

This recipe, in summary. Dry the chicken. Truss the chicken. Put the chicken in a roasting pan. Leave it in the oven for an hour. Let it rest for 15 minutes. Dig in.

I lines my roasting pan with 3 layers of foil and made sure my oven was clean before I started. If you don’t you’ll be rewarded with a very smoky oven and a very hard to clean pan!

Ingredients

One 2-3 lb chicken

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Unsalted butter

Dijon mustard

Recipe

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Remove organs from cavity. Dry inside the cavity and out of the chicken very thoroughly (water will prevent crisping).

Put salt and pepper in the cavity. Truss the chicken. Generously salt the skin, such that the salt flakes are visible all over the chicken skin (Keller estimates 1 tablespoon). Place salted chicken breast up in a roasting pan. Grind pepper over skin.

Place chicken in oven. Don’t touch it. It should be done in about 50-60 mins, when the skin is nice and crispy.

Take chicken out of oven and add thyme to the juice. Then baste chicken with juice and thyme. Let sit for 15 mins.

Remove twine. Go to town on your chicken.

Bolognese Sauce

April 27, 2011

The night before my half marathon, Will and I had a pasta party. I wanted some protein on the menu, but didn’t think I wanted to spend a warm and sunny Saturday making meatballs for eleven people. I decided on a Bolognese sauce from Tony Casillo’s Family Cookbook. Bolognese sauce is a meaty, slightly creamy pasta sauce made wih pancetta, pork, and beef.

Tony is actually a friend of my dad’s. His cookbook is filled with stories about his family and memories of his childhood in Italy. It is a very sweet cookbook. This is the first recipe of his that I’ve made. The sauce was rich (but not too rich), and was a great hit among our friends. I’d anticipated having to freeze the leftovers from my huge batch of sauce, but the pot was licked clean!

This is my third half marathon, and it’s definitely my favorite! There were few spectators, but everyone who cheered was so enthusiastic. Most of the spectators were the families who lived on the farms we ran past. The first few very hilly miles took us over a reservoir and past a few mountains. We spent a good 7 miles in farm country which was gorgeous, and ended the race on a bike path. The race was small but very sweet.

As usual, my favorite part of the race was the after party. The finish line was at the New Belgium Brewery. They had really good bands playing, unlimited New Belgium (including 1554!) on tap, and Texas Roadhouse.

I have never in my life been to Texas Roadhouse, but that pulled pork, salad, and rolls with cinnamon butter were SO GOOD. I could not stop talking to Will about it. “We can go if you want, I guess,” Will said. “There’s one like an hour away.” Now I fully recognize that under circumstances that did not involve 2 hours of running, I probably would not have attacked my meal with such gusto. But that day, it was PERFECT.

Each night this week after Will or I make dinner, we say, “Wow, that was great. But it was no Texas Roadhouse…”

BOLOGNESE SAUCE

I doubled this recipe and found it made the perfect amount of sauce for 11 people. I changed this recipe by cutting down on the butter and omitting the olive oil, since I didn’t want the runners to feel too weighted down by the end of the night. Instead of stirring the cream into the sauce at the very end, I let each person put a splash of cream on their sauce after plating since two of our diners were lactose-intolerant. This is also a good idea if you plan on having leftovers, since you shouldn’t freeze cream.

Serves 6

Ingredients

3 tablespoons butter

5 oz pancetta, minced

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 medium carrot, finely chopped

1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped

6 oz ground pork (about 3/4 cup)

6 oz ground beef (about 3/4 cup)

2 oz italian sausage meat, removed from casing if necessary

2/3 cup dry white wine

1.5 cups chicken stock

1/4 cup tomato puree

Salt & pepper

1/4 cup half and half

Recipe

Melt butter in a large pot with a heavy bottom over medium head. Add pancetta, onions, carrot, and celery. Stir occasionally and cook until vegetables are soft and onions are translucent (about 5 minutes). Stir in pork, beef, and sausage meat, and cook until meat is browned and crumbles into pieces (about 15 minutes).

Reduce heat to low, add wine, 1/4 cup of stock, and tomato paste, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover with lid. Simmer on low heat about about 1.5 hours, stirring and adding 1/4 cup stock at a time about every 10 or 15 minutes. The finished sauce should be very thick and, as Tony says, gruel-like.

Plate your bolognese sauce on some pasta (I like rigatoni, Tony likes tagliatelle), and stir in a little cream to taste. Enjoy.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.